From Björkö we did the long sail to Vänö, which went very smoothly – just reaching along at 5-6 knots, turning the page of the chart book as we zoomed eastward.

But Vänö was a big disappointment. We arrived just as the one shop closed, and moored to the jetty with a stern buoy that was far too close to the jetty for comfort, even for a little H-boat. The toilets were poorly maintained, and the whole place had a feeling of not being cared for. To cap it all, as darkness came swarms of mosquitoes descended, and we were reduced to taking refuge in our cabin.

In the morning, we got up as quickly as possible and left. We didn’t feel too bad that, as the shop still hadn’t opened again, we didn’t get a chance to pay the harbour fee.

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